An admirably discreet application of wood sets off the notably restrained, indeed almost mute nose that reflects notes of cool mineral reduction, Granny Smith apples and plenty of citrus zest. There is once again excellent mid-palate concentration to the much more mineral-driven flavors that possess first-rate complexity on the wonderfully long and balanced if markedly austere finale. This is class in a glass but note well that ample patience will be necessary. (9194)/2026+