The brilliant 2007 Celebris Rosé Extra Brut might be better described as "œil de perdrix," so subtle is its hue; cellar master Odilon de Varine commented that the idea behind the wine was not so much to produce a rosé as to produce a Celebris with more depth and richness. The wine wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, beeswax, pain d'epices and clear honey, followed by a full-bodied, broad and crisply fleshy palate with a deep and tight-knit core, a bright spine of acidity and a long, mineral finish. To my palate, this is the finest of Gosset's current releases, and it's well worth a special effort to seek out.